When Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg took to Instagram recently to unveil the company’s new generation of Meta Smart Glasses developed in partnership with Oakley, the buzz wasn’t entirely focused on the futuristic eyewear. Instead, for many observers, the real spectacle was the vibrant, high-value timepiece gleaming on his wrist. Zuckerberg’s choice of watch during the announcement of the $399 “Performance AI glasses” inadvertently highlighted his rapidly growing status as a serious connoisseur of rare and independent haute horlogerie.
Spotting the De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain
The watch that captivated the internet was identified by eagle-eyed enthusiasts as the De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain. This isn’t just any luxury watch; it’s an exceptionally rare, limited-edition piece valued at approximately $100,000. Unveiled earlier in 2024, the Purple Rain stands out not only for its striking appearance but also for representing the cutting edge of modern artisanal watchmaking.
Based on De Bethune’s smallest DB28 platform, the DB28xs measures a relatively compact 38.7mm in diameter and is impressively slender at just 7.4mm thick. This size, however, belies its dramatic presence.
A Masterpiece in Purple Titanium
The watch’s most arresting feature is its intense purple hue. The entire case, along with parts of the dial and movement, is crafted from Grade 5 titanium. This titanium is then subjected to a special heat treatment process, developed by De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet. Heating the titanium to over 700 degrees Celsius creates a mesmerizing thermal oxidation layer that produces an iridescent finish. This finish shimmers through various shades of plum, aubergine, amethyst, and lavender, depending on how the light catches it. The watch also features De Bethune’s signature floating lugs and an unconventional crown placement at 12 o’clock.
The dial is equally extraordinary. It features a unique, wavy guilloché pattern designed to evoke water reflecting a starry night sky. Hand-applied gold spheres represent stars, adding to the cosmic abstraction. The openworked titanium hands are custom-made for this model, with the minute hand featuring a subtle curve to track the rounded chapter ring displaying silver-toned Arabic numerals.
Powering this work of art is the hand-wound De Bethune Caliber DB2005. Despite the watch’s compact size, the movement is packed with technical innovation, including a titanium balance wheel, De Bethune’s proprietary shock protection system, and a flat terminal curve hairspring for enhanced accuracy. Twin barrels provide a generous six-day power reserve. The exhibition caseback, framed in the matching purple titanium, offers a view of the movement’s stunning delta-shaped bridge and meticulously finished purple baseplate.
Zuckerberg: A burgeoning Watch Collector
Zuckerberg’s choice of the De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain underscores his recent transformation into a serious watch collector. With an estimated net worth of around $245 billion, virtually any watch is within his reach, and he has been spotted wearing an impressive array of high-end timepieces. His collection reportedly includes pieces from renowned independent brands like F.P. Journe, alongside giants like Patek Philippe and vintage Rolex models, including an iced-out Daytona. He has even been seen sporting an ultra-complicated Greubel Forsey valued at roughly $900,000.
His interest seems to lean towards elite craftsmanship and mechanical innovation, particularly from smaller, independent manufactures like De Bethune, known for their limited production, innovative designs, and pursuit of being a true “Manufacture” (creating most parts in-house). The De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain, limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, fits perfectly into this profile of exclusivity and horological artistry.
A Missed Opportunity?
While the De Bethune was undoubtedly an impressive “watch-collecting flex,” some enthusiasts noted a potentially missed opportunity during the Meta x Oakley smart glasses announcement. Dressed in an Oakley shirt and sporting the new Oakley glasses, Zuckerberg could have completed an “Oakley trifecta” by also wearing a vintage Oakley watch.
From 1998 to 2015, Oakley had a significant watch business, producing distinctive, aggressively styled timepieces like the Time Bomb, Torpedo, and Bullet. Surprisingly, the avant-garde aesthetics of some vintage Oakley designs align remarkably well with the experimental nature seen in some modern haute horology.
For someone with Zuckerberg’s resources and burgeoning knowledge, acquiring a rare, collection-worthy Oakley watch – perhaps even an 18k gold Timebomb – or even a more accessible model, would have demonstrated a deeper appreciation for the specific brand partnership being announced. It could have offered a humbler, perhaps more playful, nod to Oakley’s legacy than the nearly $100,000 independent masterpiece he chose.
Ultimately, while the new Meta Oakley smart glasses represent a step into the future of wearable tech, it was a centuries-old art form – mechanical watchmaking – that truly captured the spotlight thanks to the tech mogul’s choice of wristwear. With a new decade-long partnership in place between Meta and Oakley’s parent company, EssilorLuxottica, perhaps there will be future opportunities for Zuckerberg to sport some vintage Oakley horology.
